Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Round 2

Well, tomorrow I'm heading back to Ubrique, Spain for another 10 months teaching English in the best little primary school in town. :) I'm not overly thrilled with the fact that I have to catch two planes, enjoy a layover or two, hop on a train for a couple hours...and then catch a bus which after 24 hours of travelling will finally drop me off in Ubrique. However, I've moved to a new apartment, have two new roommates, and am looking forward to another great year! After a month of walking the Camino de Santiago and such a demanding summer spent studying for the LSAT and planning for my next step (Law School!), heading back to Spain will be a nice, welcomed change.

Please continue to check my blog; in between Law School apps and teaching I will do my best to keep the blog up-to-date and to include you in round 2 of my amazing adventure.

Take care and check back soon!

Friday, September 18, 2009

Camino de Santiago - In Video!!

I know that this is long overdue...but here it finally is! Many of you have been asking for pictures for quite some time, and Mom and I finally put together a video that chronicalizes our journey along the Camino de Santiago. It is quite difficult to cram a 30-odd day journey into a short video of 10 minutes. To make the time pass a little quicker, it does have beautiful Spanish music and amazing pictures (of course), and we hope you will enjoy it!!! Now, sit back and relax as we welcome you to join us on our camino...

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Camino a Finisterre (Final Part)

Day 36 (Olveiroa to Fisterra/Finisterre -34 km): The true last day of our Camino de Santiago. What a strange feeling resided in our stomachs as we set off for our last 34 km hike. We walked about two hours through various small villages and shrub-covered rolling hills before we finally encountered a bar with food. We took the opportunity to stop for breakfast and get energy for the rest of the day. About 20 km outside of Fisterra, we passed through Cee, a charming fishing town. We had planned on stopping for lunch in Cee, but somehow managed to miss all the restaurants. However, it was clearly meant to be, because 5 km later we came across a darling restaurant right on the beach on the bay of Fisterra. We enjoyed an amazing lunch of Merluza a la Gallega (a typical Galician dish of white fish and potatos) and wine, and passed a good hour or so relaxing, reflecting on our journey. We finally decided to finish it up, and an hour or so later found ourselves entering Fisterra (the town). What an incredible feeling. But technically, we weren't finished yet; we still had to make it to Finisterre to see the Faro (the lighthouse at the end of the world). At 7:00 pm, after having showered and relaxed a bit, we continued three more kilometers to the Faro, where we sat with three dear friends, ate a picnic dinner, and watched the sun set at the end of the world into the vast, blue, mysterious Atlantic Ocean. As is the tradition on completing the walk, the pilgrims typically burn their boots, walking sticks, clothes or any other items that reminded them of difficulties encountered during their Camino. We each tossed in a few things and enjoyed the fire. It couldn't have been a more beautiful or perfect ending to a Mother and Daughter's journey across Spain.

Day 35 (Vilaserio to Olveiroa - 33 km): We set off this morning and found ourselves surrounded by a dense fog. It made for a very eerie but truly crisp and beautiful morning. It finally burned off around noon, however, once again the rain began making the paths a bit slick. We stopped for a quick bite to eat, and then continued on to Olveiroa. Being the first to arrive, we arrived three hours before the albergue opened...we passed the time sitting in the doorway while it rained, and enjoying the local bar. At one point we decided to stretch our legs and explore the town, but aside from cow barns there was little else to explore. However, we did see some pretty cute cows.

Day 34 (Santiago de Compostella to Vilaserio - 34 km): Once again, we're on the Camino. After a full day of rest in Santiago, and a relaxing morning, we set off on our "short" (90 km) three-day trek to Finisterre, rumored to be the true end of the Camino de Santiago and the end of the world. It rained most of the morning and early afternoon, and we only passed a handful of other pilgrims the entire day, but it was a welcome reprieve from the heat; perfect walking weather and absolutely beautiful. Wihout doubt, this is definitely the lesser traveled path. Once we arrived in Negreira (our intended final destination), we were told the albergue was full (only 20 beds) and they would not let us sleep on the floor. We had the option of walking 2 km back to find a hotel or hostel, or continuing another 13 km forward. Following our philosophy of "always move ahead and never go back" we decided to walk another 13 grueling km to Vilaserio. It made for an incredibly long day, and when we arrived at 7:00 pm (our latest arrival by far!) to the albergue (an old abandoned school building with mats on the floor), we were quite surprised, but quite content to settle in for the night. Afterall, in 34 days we had only been turned away from one albergue, so no room for complaining. :) A little more adventure...that's all. However, with limited albergues along the path to Finisterre, we decided we best leave earlier the next two days (to assure we could get beds).

Check back in a few days/weeks for some more reflections, pictures, and Camino info! :)

Camino de Santiago (Part 8)

Day 33 (Santiago de Compostella...0 km!): For the first time in 33 days, we woke up without an alarm set, had a continental breakfast (compliments of our amazing hotel), and further explored the beautiful city of Santiago de Compostella...without our backpacks weighing us down! And yes, we enjoyed every minute of it.

Day 32 (Arca do Pino to Santiago de Compostella - 20 km): After a mere three hours of sleep, we once again set off before daylight. For our last day, we decided to walk with our group of friends (about 15 in all). After taking numerous pictures together upon reaching the city limits of Santiago, Mom and I took off at a slightly quicker pace in order to make the noon mass at the Catedral de Santaigo (St. James' Cathedral). With only 20 minutes to spare, we made it to the cathedral and found seats in a pew next to a lovely Danish couple that we had met a couple weeks before. It truly was an incredible site to enter the cathedral and see hundreds of pilgrims - many of whom we had encountered along our pilgrimage, and many of whom we had not seen since the very first week of walking. Mom was blessed at the alter by a Spanish priest, we witnessed the swinging of the Botafumeiro (the largest censer in the world, weighing about 80 kg!), visted the catacomb of St. James and in the tradition of the Camino we hugged the bust of Saint James. After mass we went to the Pilgrims office and were issued our oficial Compostelas in Latin, proving that we had in fact walked the nearly 800 km to reach Santiago de Compostela. In celebration of our arrival, we checked into our hotel, took two very long showers...and then caught a taxi - our first car ride in nearly a month - with our dear friend Nacho to get full body massages!!! Mom and I both felt as if we had died and gone to heaven... :)

Day 31 (Ribadiso to Arca do Pino - 22 km): One day outside of Santiago de Compostella. As usual, Mom and I took off bright and early, but with nerves and excitement running high, took off a little earlier and a little quicker than normal. We passed through the small beautiful towns of Arzua and Santa Irene, but there were few towns in between. The countryside continues to be awe-inspiring and beautiful at every turn, and while we are excited to arrive in Santiago, it is also bitter-sweet knowing that our month-long trek is nearing its end. In a moment of craziness, a friend and I decided to sneak out of the albergue (after hours) at midnight to lie under the stars. It was a chilly evening, but we sat in the center of a quiet country road staring up into the sky for over an hour. Every moment was worth it; I saw two shooting stars. The perfect ending to a marvelous journey.

Day 30 (Palas del Rei to Ribadiso - 28 km): For the first time, we left well before sunrise this morning. It truly was a unique and incredible, although slightly nerve-wracking, experience. With flashlights in hand, we wandered carefully along the narrow trail through the forests in an attempt to beat the rush of pilgrims heading to Ribadiso, a small river-side town about 40 km outside of Santiago. The albergue in Ribadiso was rumored to be one of the best and most beautiful albergues in Galicia, and thus we were certain there would be a lot of pilgrims heading that way. While it only has one restaurant nearby, the albergue itself is set right next to the river, and there is truly no reason to leave the serene riverside. It was well worth the hurried and long walk through the winding hills of Galicia. And, as it turned out, we were the first to arrive at the albergue. Once in Ribadiso, Mom and I went immediately to the riverside to soak our feet in the FREEZING cold water trickling by. As our friends began to arrive, we stayed by the river, and cheered several of them on as they braved the frigid water...and went for a dip. The water was so cold, in fact, that one of our friends wedged a bottle of orujo (a typical Spanish liquor) between some rocks in the middle of the river in order to allow it to chill. Of course, we enjoyed the chilled Orujo later on that evening.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Camino de Santiago (Part 7)

Day 29 (Portomarin to Palas del Rei - 25 km): In Palas del Rei...and only 65 km to go (to Santiago!)

Day 28 (Sarria to Portomarin - 22 km): Walked up an down numerous mountains, and ended up in a beautiful pueblo high on a mountain overlooking the river.

Day 27 (Fonfria to Sarria -28 km): Even on the Camino we have a few parties...we celebrated Ivan´s (a fellow pilgrim from Tarragona, Spain) birthday. Stayed out until 1:00 (well, Mom called it quits a little earlier) and woke up at 5:30. Who needs sleep when you are only walking 22 km the next day?! haha

Day 26 (Vega de Valcarce to Fonfria - 25 km): We entered Galicia today...we are on the homerun stretch!!!! First town in Galicia is O Cebreiro which rests at the very top of one of the tallest mountains and is surrounded by stunning views. Absolutely gorgeous. And even better yet, less than 150 km to go to Santiago!

Day 25 (Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce - 24 km): Lovely easy walk today. Unfortunately mostly along the highway, but very little traffic. The day was topped off with a "quemada" a typical Galician tradition that involves a spell and a intoxicatingly sweet alcoholic drink (brewed just like a real witch´s brew).

Day 24 (Molinaseca to Cacabelos - 23 km): Spend the night in a bungalow type albergue...two to a room. Enjoyed the privacy, but had quite a bit of a walk to the restrooms and showers. Rained a bit (luckily only once we arrived). However we made some good out of it and just sat in a covered area listening to a friend play the flute.

Day 23 (Rabanal to Molinaseca - 25.5 km): Had a huge climb today! Almost as challenging as the first day (in the Pyranese) but not quite as bad. Ended up in Molinaseca, had a wonderful evening with a huge group of friends...bathed our feet in the river, went out for a "light" dinner and came back to the Albergue at 11:00 pm. Probably the best night of the whole trip...wish I had the time to give details.

Day 22 (Astorga to Rabanal - 20 km): ... Started climbing again today - you can definitely tell we are approching Galicia, one of the most mountaneous regions of Spain. Quite a beautiful a day, sunny, but humid. Rabanal is a darling little town nestled up in the hills, surrounded by tall pines.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Camino de Santiago (Part 6)

Day 21 (San Martino del Camino to Astorga - 22 km): Decided to take a shorter day today as well sine in the next few days we will be climbing some massive mountains. Astorga is a beautiful city, and home to yet another famous building by Gaudi (Episcopal Palance of Astorga) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Astorga,_Spain) and an ancient Cathedral. The city has its roots in the Roman era, and there are many Roman ruins throughout the city. They have taken care to preserve and mark all ruins and historic sites. We have truly seen some beautiful sites and have loved exploring the small towns and larger cities along the Camino.

Day 20 (Leon to San Martino del Camino - 24 km): Long stretch leaving the city...mostly through the suburbs and industrial area of León. However, it is always neat to see the architecture and various neighborhoods. Once out of León, we were in a land of fields and aquaducts (sp??) again. We have never seen such an intricate and advanced agricultural water system in our lives. It is truly impressive. Ended up in San Martino del Camino...nothing too exciting. Not even a public telephone. Or a restaurant. Just two bars. Enough said.

Day 19 (Mansilla de las Mulas to León - 20 km): Short walk to Leon (a beautiful, historic city and capital of León). We climbed our first hills today after a lengthy 6 day stretch of flatness. However, from the top of the last "hill" we were able to see León in the distance. We reached León at approximately 10:30 am, and were able to check into a hotel and have a leisurly look around in León. We explored the Cathedral, Basilica of San Isidoro, and Casa Botines (a palace constructed by the Catalan architect Antonin Gaudi). The Cathedral is one of the most impressive structures I have ever seen in my life and is truly a sight. The ratio of stone to stained glass is almost 50-50 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le%C3%B3n_Cathedral). After a "touristy" day, Mom and I went back to the hotel, went to the hotel spa (free!) and soaked our tired little feet. Quite a pleasant day.

Day 18 (El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas - 26.3 km): Undoubtedly one of the hottest walking days so far. We continued along lengthy stretches of fields without any shade, and miles and miles of flatness. To our surprise, the Camino has followed or actually been directly on the road/highway. The countryside is still beautiful, but the road traffic does slightly detract from the whole experience. We stayed in a not-so-nice albergue in Mansilla de las Mulas. It was beautiful from the outside, and fairly clean...however, all showers and toilets were downstairs and outside. Absolutely no privacy. But, then again, we are quite accustomed to that by now.

....on a different note...we are starting to wonder if we will ever eat bread, ham, chicken or eggs again. Most restaurants and bars have what is called a "Pilgrims Menu" which is supposed to be a cheaper option for pilgrims, but frankly we think it is a fabulous way to take advantage of pilgrims. It is getting quite pricey, and we eat the same things daily...even though we make an effort to find other things. But, such is the life of a pilgrim, right?

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Camino de Santiago (Part 5)

Day 17 ( Terradillos de Los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero -31 km) Today was definitely one of the most challenging days so far. Although we had really been looking forward to the flat stretches, we realized today that flat means absolutely no shade and as such makes for a much more grueling and challenging walk. We walked some 30 kilometers today without shade, along a part of the Camino known as being the "loneliest" part of the Camino. Thank goodness we have each other...right? We had actually planned on stopping at a village at approximately 24 kilometers, however we arrived to find the Albergue closed until 1.30. Rather than wait two hours in the blistering hot sun, we decided we might as well walk 7 more km and make some progres (albeit in the blistering hot sun as well). Days like today really make you feel humble...and at the mercy of the elements. But we made it another day, and are another day closer to our final destination.

Day 16 (Carrion de los Condes to Terradillos de Los Templarios - 25 km) Walking from Carrion de los Condes we faced a 17 km stretch of nothingness. No towns to pass through, no bars, no water, no shade. Just kilometers of land, fields, and tired pilgrims. However, we managed to keep our spirits high, and eventually trailed into Terradillos de Los Templarios...only to realize the Albergue was basically the whole town. Sometimes it is a little frustrating after walking for 6 to 8 hours to find yourself in a town with absolutely nothing other than an Albergue. There is nowhere to eat, to pick up a sandwich (or bocadillo) or any snacks. So you usually end up paying the high prices at the Albergue. However, we are learning to accept the circumstances and are still smiling.

Day 15 (Boadilla to Carrion de los Condes - 26 km) Beautiful day for walking, but incresingly warmer. Pretty flat trail today, nothing too complicated. Flat days are nice welcome breaks from the up and down trails the past few days. Once we arrived in Carrion de los Condes we made our way to one of the Albergues (which actually happened to be a convent still run by nuns). Turned out to be very clean and a nice set up...but not ideal when you have a lot of laundry to do. We hand wash all our clothes and hang them to dry, and usually in a few hours they are dry. Not today. After being out ALL day and then brought in at night (and hung in the hallway) we still woke up to wet wool socks and undergarments. The Camino can be a little challenging at times...in fact, walking long distances sometimes is the easy part. Haha. However, in Carrion de los Condes we bought a 9 euro box of cookies from the local monestery that were to die for. Abolutely incredible little bites of heaven. To be honest, it was probably the best part of the day!