On the evening of May 3, many pueblos and cities throughout Spain celebrate the "Fiesta de las Cruces"...which is popularly (and appropriately) known by the Ubriqueños as "Día de los gamones."
A gamón is a type of wild lily, similar to a gigantic asparagus plant, that grows in hills surrounding Ubrique. Days before the fiesta, Ubriqueños can be seen throughout the mountains collecting as many gamones as possible in preparation for the evening activities of May 3rd. Once dusk hits, the entire town of Ubrique is illuminated by over 60 "candelas" or bon fires scattered throughout the various neighborhoods. The largest and most famous candela is in the Plaza de Verdura (which is conveniently right across from my flat).
So what does a wild lily esparragus like plant have to do with a bon fire? Well, as tradition has it, you place your gamones at the base of the fire, allow it to heat up, and when you see smoke and start to hear it sizzle, you grab it and smack it as hard as possible against a nearby rock. If all goes well, the end result is an extremely loud explosion (accompanied by parts of gamones flying everywhere). And everytime you explode a gamón, you are supposed to make a wish for good health for someone in your family or one of your friends. The idea being that the gamón loses its vigor and passes it on to someone else. So if you collect 30 gamones, and have 30 explosions, 30 people will supposedly have good health (that is, if you remember to make the wish).
The origin of Día de los Gamones is not exactly known, but there are two existing theories. One theory says that the practice of exploding gamones originated and was done by local shepherds to scare the wolves away from their flocks. However, the other (more widely accepted) theory suggests that at the beginning of the 19th century a French detachment occupied the area and a large portion of the Ubriqueños fled to the surrounding mountainside where they exploded gamones in an attempt to trick the French into believing the pueblo was heavily armed. And that is the story of the gamones, and the Día de los Gamones that is only celebrated in Ubrique. And in case you were wondering, while I stood around the bonfire from 10 pm until 3 am in the morning, and attempted to explode a ton of gamones, I was unsuccessful in every attempt. I must say, however, that I got a half-explosion out of a couple. That´s something, right? I guess I will have to practice when I get back to the states, so that next year I can call myself a true gamonera!
Monday, May 4, 2009
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
An Authentic Spanish Wedding!!!!!
An authentic Spanish wedding. Frankly, I couldn´t ask for a better cultural experience. And I would have never imagined in just 7 short months that I would become close enough with a group of friends (one of whom happened to be getting married soon) to be invited to the wedding. But, I got lucky, and my Spanish fairytale continues.
The wedding was set at 12:00 on Saturday, April 25, 2008. Roque Jesus, the groom, was already in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento at 11:30 waiting anxiously for the guests and the bride. Little by little, the guests also started to gather in anticipation of the arrival of Marie Carmen (the bride). Suddenly, to the sound of churchbells ringing and the honking of the bride´s car, Marie Carmen arrived. Everyone rushed to the car´s side, and Marie Carmen stepped out in an intricate lace wedding gown, with a veil measuring at least 12 feet. Once the guests got a glance of the bride, some ran quickly into the church, while others filed in behind the bride and her groom. The ceremony began. And continued. And they were pronounced husband and wife. As quickly as we had all entered the church, we all ran out. While the bride and groom, and their families were taking pictures, everyone prepared to throw rice. Marie Carmen and Roque finally came out of the church, and were showered with a curtain of rice.
From the church, the bride and groom went to a photo shoot while all of the guests went to various bars around town to mingle and have a quick drink before the reception began at 2 o´clock. Once at the reception, we enjoyed a variety of 15 different tapa-like hors D´oerves. At 3:30, the bride and groom arrived, and this time, were met by a curtain of confetti and balloons. We all entered the hotel reception room, and prepared for the meal of a century. The meal started with appetizers (as if we hadn´t eaten enough already) of Iberian ham and sausague, and an assortment of cheeses. This was follwed by a mixed salad. The salad was then followed by a plate of 10 shrimp (yes, you had to behead and peel the poor lil guys yourself). After the shrimp, we enjoyed a nice lemon sorbet (which was allegedly to help the digestion process and cleanse the palate). Then came the "first" plate, a typical Spanish stew consisting of broth, ham, and egg. The second plate was a fillet of lamb filled with ham and peppers in a mushroom sauce and fried potatoes. For dessert we enjoyed a typical Spanish cake. And to top it all off, we sipped on a hot cup of coffee (or tea). To my surprise, the bride and groom did not have a specific "wedding cake" nor did they partake in any ceremonial cutting (like a typical American reception). I was also surprised when the reception finished and no one had made a single toast [aside from various people shouting "VIVAN LOS NOVIOS" ("long live the bride and groom)] and the bride and groom themselves did not speak either.
After the meal, the open bar (admittedly the best part) began and continued for about 3 hours. Three short hours of drinking, singing, laughing, dancing, crying, and celebrating. When the open bar finally closed around midnight, we all left the hotel. You might be thinking that the party ended there. You are quite wrong. From the hotel reception, we ALL (bride and groom included) went to Avenida Espana (the main/only bar hopping street in Ubrique). From there, the party continued until 7:00 in the morning. Unfortunately for me, the festivities ended around 2:30, since I had to get up the next morning for a hike and climbing/rapelling adventure. So around 2:30, I slowly managed to find my way back to my flat, and I crashed until 8:00 am. What an adventure and what an experience! I have said it before, and I will say it again...The Spaniards (specifically these Andalucíans) know how to PaRTy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The wedding was set at 12:00 on Saturday, April 25, 2008. Roque Jesus, the groom, was already in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento at 11:30 waiting anxiously for the guests and the bride. Little by little, the guests also started to gather in anticipation of the arrival of Marie Carmen (the bride). Suddenly, to the sound of churchbells ringing and the honking of the bride´s car, Marie Carmen arrived. Everyone rushed to the car´s side, and Marie Carmen stepped out in an intricate lace wedding gown, with a veil measuring at least 12 feet. Once the guests got a glance of the bride, some ran quickly into the church, while others filed in behind the bride and her groom. The ceremony began. And continued. And they were pronounced husband and wife. As quickly as we had all entered the church, we all ran out. While the bride and groom, and their families were taking pictures, everyone prepared to throw rice. Marie Carmen and Roque finally came out of the church, and were showered with a curtain of rice.
From the church, the bride and groom went to a photo shoot while all of the guests went to various bars around town to mingle and have a quick drink before the reception began at 2 o´clock. Once at the reception, we enjoyed a variety of 15 different tapa-like hors D´oerves. At 3:30, the bride and groom arrived, and this time, were met by a curtain of confetti and balloons. We all entered the hotel reception room, and prepared for the meal of a century. The meal started with appetizers (as if we hadn´t eaten enough already) of Iberian ham and sausague, and an assortment of cheeses. This was follwed by a mixed salad. The salad was then followed by a plate of 10 shrimp (yes, you had to behead and peel the poor lil guys yourself). After the shrimp, we enjoyed a nice lemon sorbet (which was allegedly to help the digestion process and cleanse the palate). Then came the "first" plate, a typical Spanish stew consisting of broth, ham, and egg. The second plate was a fillet of lamb filled with ham and peppers in a mushroom sauce and fried potatoes. For dessert we enjoyed a typical Spanish cake. And to top it all off, we sipped on a hot cup of coffee (or tea). To my surprise, the bride and groom did not have a specific "wedding cake" nor did they partake in any ceremonial cutting (like a typical American reception). I was also surprised when the reception finished and no one had made a single toast [aside from various people shouting "VIVAN LOS NOVIOS" ("long live the bride and groom)] and the bride and groom themselves did not speak either.
After the meal, the open bar (admittedly the best part) began and continued for about 3 hours. Three short hours of drinking, singing, laughing, dancing, crying, and celebrating. When the open bar finally closed around midnight, we all left the hotel. You might be thinking that the party ended there. You are quite wrong. From the hotel reception, we ALL (bride and groom included) went to Avenida Espana (the main/only bar hopping street in Ubrique). From there, the party continued until 7:00 in the morning. Unfortunately for me, the festivities ended around 2:30, since I had to get up the next morning for a hike and climbing/rapelling adventure. So around 2:30, I slowly managed to find my way back to my flat, and I crashed until 8:00 am. What an adventure and what an experience! I have said it before, and I will say it again...The Spaniards (specifically these Andalucíans) know how to PaRTy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sunday, April 19, 2009
Semana Santa II
On Thursday, April 9, 2009, I hopped on a bus and headed to Sevilla, the city with the most elaborate and numerous Semana Santa processions in all of Spain. Thursday night, or what is known as the "madrugá" is the most famous night in Sevilla, and hundreds of thousands of people come from all over Spain and Europe to witness the numerous processions that begin early Thursday afternoon and continue throughout the entire night and well into Friday afternoon.
I arrived in Sevilla around 8 pm on Thursday evening, went to an acquantaince´s piso to grab a quick bite to eat and went out to the streets at 10:00 pm. We did not return to the piso until 7:15 am Friday morning. We saw a total of 8 processions throughout the night, all extremely beautiful, but extremely long and slow moving. Some processions had as many as 2,000 "nazares"...which meant that if you stood in one location to watch the procession pass, you would have to stand for over 1 hour and 30 minutes to see it from start to finish. We saw a few processions in their entirety, but mainly just ran around the city of Sevilla trying to see the ornate saints/floats and listen to the accompanying music. Once we saw what we wanted to see, we navigated through the crowds to find the next procession.
While I think the solemn and reflective nature of Semana Santa has largely faded away and become more of a social ocassion, it is still an incredible way to celebrate Holy Week and Easter. The people who carry the statues of the saints, who come in penance, who come playing music for the ears of God, and who come to reflect on the sacrifices of those who have come before them, continue to keep the beauty and solemnity of Semana Santa alive, or at least, visible.
All in all, throughout Semana Santa I saw processions in Cádiz, Ubrique, Sevilla, and Chipiona. All were beautiful and very distinct, but Sevilla had without a doubt the most elaborate celebrations. However, it also had the most people, most tourists, and most chaos. Did I mention it took my friend and I over 2 hours just to return to the piso, which on any other day should have only taken about 20 minutes walking? The verdict: It was a wonderful experience to go to Sevilla and I wouldn´t have missed it for anything, but if I am ever back in Spain for Semana Santa, I think I will stick to the smaller pueblos and avoid the crowds.
I arrived in Sevilla around 8 pm on Thursday evening, went to an acquantaince´s piso to grab a quick bite to eat and went out to the streets at 10:00 pm. We did not return to the piso until 7:15 am Friday morning. We saw a total of 8 processions throughout the night, all extremely beautiful, but extremely long and slow moving. Some processions had as many as 2,000 "nazares"...which meant that if you stood in one location to watch the procession pass, you would have to stand for over 1 hour and 30 minutes to see it from start to finish. We saw a few processions in their entirety, but mainly just ran around the city of Sevilla trying to see the ornate saints/floats and listen to the accompanying music. Once we saw what we wanted to see, we navigated through the crowds to find the next procession.
While I think the solemn and reflective nature of Semana Santa has largely faded away and become more of a social ocassion, it is still an incredible way to celebrate Holy Week and Easter. The people who carry the statues of the saints, who come in penance, who come playing music for the ears of God, and who come to reflect on the sacrifices of those who have come before them, continue to keep the beauty and solemnity of Semana Santa alive, or at least, visible.
All in all, throughout Semana Santa I saw processions in Cádiz, Ubrique, Sevilla, and Chipiona. All were beautiful and very distinct, but Sevilla had without a doubt the most elaborate celebrations. However, it also had the most people, most tourists, and most chaos. Did I mention it took my friend and I over 2 hours just to return to the piso, which on any other day should have only taken about 20 minutes walking? The verdict: It was a wonderful experience to go to Sevilla and I wouldn´t have missed it for anything, but if I am ever back in Spain for Semana Santa, I think I will stick to the smaller pueblos and avoid the crowds.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Semana Santa I
As many of you may know, Spain is especially renowned for its "Semana Santa" (or Holy Week) traditions. Once again, Andalucía (the southern-most autonomous region of Spain where I currently reside) is home to the most glamorous celebrations (just like the Cádiz carnaval). Most pueblos and all capital cities in Andalucia participate in Semana Santa and have various processions that coincide with the historical biblical account of Christ the week before Easter. But within Andalucia, Sevilla is typically recognized as the most elaborate, and every year draws an enormous crowd of religious and simply curious onlookers. I will be one, as I am heading up to Sevilla later this afternoon to witness the processions of Maunday Thursday that go throughout the entire night until dawn.
However, I have already been fortunate enough to get a taste of Semana Santa, in my own Pueblo and in Cádiz. My experience in Cádiz, however, was the outcome of pure luck (or maybe pure bad luck?). Let me explain. After participating in a grueling 8 hour hike on Sunday (covering some 45 kilometers of mountainous terrain from Ronda to Ubrique), my roommate suggested I take a day to relax and head to the beach. So we hopped on the internet, and decided to venture to somewhere new: Puerto de Santa Maria. On Monday morning, we arrived at the Ubrique bus station at 8:20 am, 10 minutes early to catch the supposed 8:30 bus to Jerez. To our surprise (but it really shouldn´t have surprised us), the internet bus schedule was wrong, and our bus did not depart until 9 am. So, we took a half hour walk around town to kill the time, then hopped on what we thought would be a fairly quick journey to Jerez. Two hours and fourty-five minutes later (on a route that by car takes 45 minutes max) we arrived in Jerez where we ran across to the train station to catch the train to Puerto de Santa Maria. Once we arrived in Puerto de Santa Maria and stepped off the train, we anxiously looked around for the beach (or any sign of a beach). There was none. But we decided not to panic, and went to ask a passerby who informed us we needed to catch a city bus to the nearest beach...and if we wanted to catch it we should probably turn and start running since it was already at the bus stop. So we thanked her, took off running, and made the city bus with two seconds to spare. In another 30 minutes, we were finally at the beach. Total transportation time: 3 hours and 30 minutes.
Once at the beach, we realized neither of us had sunscreen. In order to avoid looking like lobsters, we decided to go buy some. How hard can it be, right? Well, that is a whole other story in and of itself. Long story short, we finallly bought some SPF, went back to the beach, and enjoyed the sunshine for 3 hours. At 4:00, we headed up to the bus stop to catch the 4:30 city bus back to the train station. We arrived at the stop at 4:15, and went into a store right next door to buy a drink. At the precise moment I was paying (4:18 pm), a lovely blue city bus drove by. Yup, there went our bus. Go figure, you take extra care to arrive 12 minutes early and you still miss your bus. So we did the only thing we could do, wait 30 minutes for the next bus. Once we hopped on the city bus, we anxiously rode around for another 30 minutes thinking that we were now cutting our connections very close...but still thinking we were okay. We arrived at the train station at exactly the same time the train (OUR train) was pulling up. So we sprinted across traffic, and ran to the ticket window and asked for the 5:30 train to Jerez. The grumpy ticket seller informed us we just missed it and the next one did not leave until 6:00 pm. However, we could not take that one because the last bus for the night departs Jerez for Ubrique at 6:00 pm. So we looked into our only other option: heading to Cádiz where there was a 6:30 bus. We bought our tickets to Cádiz, and in 45 minutes arrived with exactly 7 minutes to spare to run and catch the bus back to Ubrique. As we were sprinting (once again) out of the train station, I found myself unable to exit because the machine would not recognize my ticket. Since it was a valid ticket, I thought it would be okay to hop on over and continue sprinting. However, since I was not tall enough, I ended up just repeatedly inserting my ticket thinking it has to work at some point while my friend ran to get help and tell someone I was and unable to exit. Two minutes passed, but it seemed like a lifetime. I finally got out, and yet again, we did a full out sprint to try and make the 6:30 bus back to Ubrique. We arrived at the bus stop, and there was no bus. But we had not seen a bus while we were running either (and we ran along the route), so we decided it must just be running a little late. Finally we grew curious, went and asked a police officer, who apologized but told us he had not been paying attention to the buses. Finally a bus pulled up, and we asked about Ubrique. He told us the last bus left at 5:00 pm. Wait. Back-up. Excuse me? Fortunately for us, he was mistaking. However, so were we. There was no 6:30 bus to Ubrique on the weekdays (only the weekend), but there was one more bus back to Ubrique that left at 8:15 pm...which meant we had a little under two hours to fiddle around.
We decided to go back to the police officer and see what all the commotion was in the main Plaza. To our delight, it was one of the first Semana Santa processions of the week. Niether of us have ever been in Spain during Holy Week or seen a procession of the like, so we stuck around. It was quite elaborate, everyone dressed in white robes/tunics with pointed white hats, and some walking barefoot along the streets of Cádiz (in penance). The statues of Christ and the Virgin were incredibly ornate, and like all processions here, were carried through the streets at a snails pace, by a group of 30 or more men. This is no easy task, as these sculptures weigh hundreds of pounds. Following each statue is a band, that walks and plays behind the scultpures and penants. Lining the way for the scultpures, and scattered throughout the bands and the penants, are nazarenos (or people carrying processional candles and crosses). Little kids from the crowds often approach the nazarenos and ask them to pour wax from their candles onto a wax ball. Since the processions last hours (usually a minimum of 4 hours), the kids get bored, and making a wax ball that grows from year to year, is a way to pass the time and a tradition that has survived the years and getting even more popular. It was quite interesting to see.
Finally, at 8:15 our bus came, and we hopped back on...quite ready to return home. All in all, 6 hours and 30 minutes of transportation, for 3 hours at the beach, and 1 hour and 45 minutes in Cádiz viewing the procession. Needless to say, we were a little tired of riding on trains and buses by the time we got home. But were thrilled we got to see a Semana Santa procession...by pure luck? or bad luck? Still can´t decide.
However, I have already been fortunate enough to get a taste of Semana Santa, in my own Pueblo and in Cádiz. My experience in Cádiz, however, was the outcome of pure luck (or maybe pure bad luck?). Let me explain. After participating in a grueling 8 hour hike on Sunday (covering some 45 kilometers of mountainous terrain from Ronda to Ubrique), my roommate suggested I take a day to relax and head to the beach. So we hopped on the internet, and decided to venture to somewhere new: Puerto de Santa Maria. On Monday morning, we arrived at the Ubrique bus station at 8:20 am, 10 minutes early to catch the supposed 8:30 bus to Jerez. To our surprise (but it really shouldn´t have surprised us), the internet bus schedule was wrong, and our bus did not depart until 9 am. So, we took a half hour walk around town to kill the time, then hopped on what we thought would be a fairly quick journey to Jerez. Two hours and fourty-five minutes later (on a route that by car takes 45 minutes max) we arrived in Jerez where we ran across to the train station to catch the train to Puerto de Santa Maria. Once we arrived in Puerto de Santa Maria and stepped off the train, we anxiously looked around for the beach (or any sign of a beach). There was none. But we decided not to panic, and went to ask a passerby who informed us we needed to catch a city bus to the nearest beach...and if we wanted to catch it we should probably turn and start running since it was already at the bus stop. So we thanked her, took off running, and made the city bus with two seconds to spare. In another 30 minutes, we were finally at the beach. Total transportation time: 3 hours and 30 minutes.
Once at the beach, we realized neither of us had sunscreen. In order to avoid looking like lobsters, we decided to go buy some. How hard can it be, right? Well, that is a whole other story in and of itself. Long story short, we finallly bought some SPF, went back to the beach, and enjoyed the sunshine for 3 hours. At 4:00, we headed up to the bus stop to catch the 4:30 city bus back to the train station. We arrived at the stop at 4:15, and went into a store right next door to buy a drink. At the precise moment I was paying (4:18 pm), a lovely blue city bus drove by. Yup, there went our bus. Go figure, you take extra care to arrive 12 minutes early and you still miss your bus. So we did the only thing we could do, wait 30 minutes for the next bus. Once we hopped on the city bus, we anxiously rode around for another 30 minutes thinking that we were now cutting our connections very close...but still thinking we were okay. We arrived at the train station at exactly the same time the train (OUR train) was pulling up. So we sprinted across traffic, and ran to the ticket window and asked for the 5:30 train to Jerez. The grumpy ticket seller informed us we just missed it and the next one did not leave until 6:00 pm. However, we could not take that one because the last bus for the night departs Jerez for Ubrique at 6:00 pm. So we looked into our only other option: heading to Cádiz where there was a 6:30 bus. We bought our tickets to Cádiz, and in 45 minutes arrived with exactly 7 minutes to spare to run and catch the bus back to Ubrique. As we were sprinting (once again) out of the train station, I found myself unable to exit because the machine would not recognize my ticket. Since it was a valid ticket, I thought it would be okay to hop on over and continue sprinting. However, since I was not tall enough, I ended up just repeatedly inserting my ticket thinking it has to work at some point while my friend ran to get help and tell someone I was and unable to exit. Two minutes passed, but it seemed like a lifetime. I finally got out, and yet again, we did a full out sprint to try and make the 6:30 bus back to Ubrique. We arrived at the bus stop, and there was no bus. But we had not seen a bus while we were running either (and we ran along the route), so we decided it must just be running a little late. Finally we grew curious, went and asked a police officer, who apologized but told us he had not been paying attention to the buses. Finally a bus pulled up, and we asked about Ubrique. He told us the last bus left at 5:00 pm. Wait. Back-up. Excuse me? Fortunately for us, he was mistaking. However, so were we. There was no 6:30 bus to Ubrique on the weekdays (only the weekend), but there was one more bus back to Ubrique that left at 8:15 pm...which meant we had a little under two hours to fiddle around.
We decided to go back to the police officer and see what all the commotion was in the main Plaza. To our delight, it was one of the first Semana Santa processions of the week. Niether of us have ever been in Spain during Holy Week or seen a procession of the like, so we stuck around. It was quite elaborate, everyone dressed in white robes/tunics with pointed white hats, and some walking barefoot along the streets of Cádiz (in penance). The statues of Christ and the Virgin were incredibly ornate, and like all processions here, were carried through the streets at a snails pace, by a group of 30 or more men. This is no easy task, as these sculptures weigh hundreds of pounds. Following each statue is a band, that walks and plays behind the scultpures and penants. Lining the way for the scultpures, and scattered throughout the bands and the penants, are nazarenos (or people carrying processional candles and crosses). Little kids from the crowds often approach the nazarenos and ask them to pour wax from their candles onto a wax ball. Since the processions last hours (usually a minimum of 4 hours), the kids get bored, and making a wax ball that grows from year to year, is a way to pass the time and a tradition that has survived the years and getting even more popular. It was quite interesting to see.
Finally, at 8:15 our bus came, and we hopped back on...quite ready to return home. All in all, 6 hours and 30 minutes of transportation, for 3 hours at the beach, and 1 hour and 45 minutes in Cádiz viewing the procession. Needless to say, we were a little tired of riding on trains and buses by the time we got home. But were thrilled we got to see a Semana Santa procession...by pure luck? or bad luck? Still can´t decide.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
A Week in Portugal
It all started back in 2006 when I was studying abroad in Granada for 4 months, which at the time, seemed like plenty of time to do everything I wanted to do, and to see everything I wanted to see. But before I knew it, I was hopping on a plane back to the US, and while I had taken 10 days to galavant around Germany, France, Italy, Austria, and Switzerland...I hadn´t found the time to make it to neighboring Portugal. So I must admit, ever since then, I have been a little obsessed with Portugal and I promised myself I would not return back to the states until I stepped foot in Portugal. I write with good news, today: I am now free to return to the US, because I just spent the last 6 days traveling throughout Portugal. And what an adventure it was.
Two weeks ago, while I was chilling in my friend Ines´s travel agency talking and passing the time, I noticed a sheet of paper announcing a week long adventure in Portugal for 155 euros (meals, transportation, and hotel included in the price). I immediately thought it was too good to be true. It was...to a certain extent. Because I went as a single, and not in a pair, the price jumped to 250 euros. However, for all that was included, it was still a darn good price. So I signed up, asked for the week off from work, and last Sunday caught the 7:30 am bus from Ubrique to Ronda, and at 9:00 am hopped on the tour bus from Ronda to Fatima (Portugal). And yes, if you are wondering, it was a extremely tight connection. But I like to live on the edge...
Sunday (Day 1): The journey to Portugal. I completely panicked at first, because I was the only single on the bus...and the only person under the age of 60. For the first several hours, not a single person said a word to me (except for the bus driver who came back to check on me a couple times because I think he felt a little sorry for me haha). But 8 hours later when we arrived in Portugal and were eating dinner, someone finally turned to me and asked me if I spoke Spanish. I said "Sí!" And for the next 5 days, we were all one big happy family (a family of a 22 year old, and 40 some 60 year olds and above). :) But before I go further, I must clarify right now that this was probably the most amazing and the best tour/trip of my life. So don´t worry, I have nothing against what one might call "senior citizens."
Monday (Day 2): We took off from the hotel bright and early, and headed to Nazaré, a small historic fishing town in central Portugal. After spending a couple hours exploring the historic district, walking along the beach, and shopping, we headed to Alcobaca, and visted the Alcobaca Monestery (built in 1153) which was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1989 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcobaça_Monastery). Then we headed back to the hotel in Fatima, ate lunch, and embarked on the next journey. We spent the afternoon in Batalha, visiting the Santa María de la Victoria Monastery, which was also declared a world heritage site by UNESCO (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batalha_Monastery). And rightfully so; the church is absolutely amazing, and the monastery even more incredible. On our way back from Batalha, we stopped off at a Wine Museum and enjoyed a wine tasting of some of the sweet dessert wines of the Porto region of Portugal. This was my frist wine tasting...and while I must admit I am still not a fan of wine, there was one that I at least found bearable. :)
Tuesday (Day 3): We spent the morning exploring the beautiful historic town of Sintra (located near Lisboa). The entire town is considered a UNESCO world heritage site due to its 19th century Romanesque architecture. Sintra is home to an incredible castle (Castillo Moro) and 2 ornate palaces (Palacio de Pena and the Palacio de la Villa) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pena_Palace). It is also one of the most expensive (and wealthiest) districts of Portugal, along with neighboring Cascais, situated on the beach. After visiting the castles and palaces of Sintra, we took a bus tour of Cascais, took a few moments to wander along the beach, and stopped off in Estoril for a picnic in front of the Casino Estoril, Europe´s largest casino and property of one of Europe´s wealthiest. In the afternoon, we stopped off in Öbidos, a tiny village famous for its white houses adorned with flowers, and for the Medieval wall that surrounds the entire village. Here we enjoyed a traditional cherry liquour, served with a small chocolate tart. As you might guess, the chocolate tart was my favorite part.
Wednesday (Day 4): Day trip to Lisboa!!!! We spent the entire day exploring Portugal´s capital, from the industrial/river side, to the historic district, to the monuments, and to the city center. In the morning, we visted the Jerónimos Monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeronimos_Monastery) and the nearby torre of Belem; both of which are UNESCO world heritage sites. After lunch, we had the afternoon free to explore as much or as little of Lisboa as we wanted. As you might guess, I took off running in order to see everything I possibly could. I wandered along the winding streets aimlessly, attempting to find St. Jorge´s Castle. A half hour later, I eventually did. After exploring the castle, I headed back down to the center of town, visited the Cathedral, passed by the Basillica, ran across the main squares, visited the main shopping district, and much, much more. When it was all said and done, I was exhausted. Oh, and did I mention I “met” my first drug dealer?! As I was sprinting across one of the main squares, a man began to approach me asking me if I wanted to buy some marijuana or hashish…I kept walking, and said “no thank you.” Then I got a little feistier when he didn’t accept my “no thank you” and told him to back off. Which he did. Never underestimate the power of voice tonation. But go figure, in broad day light, in a busy populated square…?!
Thursday (Day 5): Day trip to Coimbra, which for many years served as the Capital of Portugal and is home to one of Portugal´s (and Europe´s) oldest and most impressive Universities. We had the opportunity to visit and explore the grounds of the University of Coimbra, the Old and New Cathedrals, the river front, and the historic town center. We returned to the hotel in Fatima for lunch, and spent the afternoon in Cova da Iria (part of Fatima) where the three young shepherds first claimed to have seen the aparition of the Virgin Mary on May 13th in 1917 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fátima,_Portugal).
Friday (Day 6): We had a "free day" to relax and do whatever we wanted in Fatima. Since there really is not much to do in Fatima, other than visit religious museums and the famous Sanctuary of Fatima, that is exactly what I did. I spent the afternoon wandering around the town, and ran into the two bus drivers, and passed an hour or so chatting with them. After dinner, we had a toast and headed over to the other group´s hotel to celebrate the birthday of one of the travelers on Bus #1 (two buses went to Portugal, but we were all the same group). After some good Spanish jokes, some singing and some flamenco, I headed back to the hotel to get a good nights rest since I had to be up at 6:30 am the next morning to begin the long journey back to Spain.
Saturday (Day 7): This might just be my favorite and least favorite day all at once. Clearly I didn´t like the fact that my Portugal adventure was ending, but I was quite thrilled that the bus driver invited me to ride in the very front of the bus (in the guide´s seat next to him) the entire way back! It was, shall we say, absolutely amazing and so much fun! Once back in Ronda, I had to catch another bus to take me back to Ubrique...and officially, my travels ended.
All in all, I had the trip of a lifetime. I have never travelled with such nice, warm, and welcoming people in my life. Nor have I ever met such professional but friendly and fun tour staff (the bus driver and our tour guide). While Portugal is a beautiful country, and I am quite happy to finally say I have visited Portugal (and a large portion of the country at that!), it was the people that made my trip so memorable.
Continuation of the Quirks, Ins-and-Outs, and Best Parts of Spain:
31. Only in Ubrique can you participate in a River Run on a Friday night at 9:30 pm. Yes, I ran with a group of 15 others for 2 kilometers up the freezing cold river that runs through the middle of town. Why? No idea. I suppose just to say we did it.
32. Spanish olive oil truly is the best in the world.
33. Spanish is much easier to understand than Portuguese. Haha.
34. The beaches of Spain are incredible. Cádiz comes to mind. But so does Barcelona, Nerja, Marbella, etc.
35. Bus is the only way to travel in Spain. You miss out on everything if you fly. That is my official opinion. You can quote me.
Two weeks ago, while I was chilling in my friend Ines´s travel agency talking and passing the time, I noticed a sheet of paper announcing a week long adventure in Portugal for 155 euros (meals, transportation, and hotel included in the price). I immediately thought it was too good to be true. It was...to a certain extent. Because I went as a single, and not in a pair, the price jumped to 250 euros. However, for all that was included, it was still a darn good price. So I signed up, asked for the week off from work, and last Sunday caught the 7:30 am bus from Ubrique to Ronda, and at 9:00 am hopped on the tour bus from Ronda to Fatima (Portugal). And yes, if you are wondering, it was a extremely tight connection. But I like to live on the edge...
Sunday (Day 1): The journey to Portugal. I completely panicked at first, because I was the only single on the bus...and the only person under the age of 60. For the first several hours, not a single person said a word to me (except for the bus driver who came back to check on me a couple times because I think he felt a little sorry for me haha). But 8 hours later when we arrived in Portugal and were eating dinner, someone finally turned to me and asked me if I spoke Spanish. I said "Sí!" And for the next 5 days, we were all one big happy family (a family of a 22 year old, and 40 some 60 year olds and above). :) But before I go further, I must clarify right now that this was probably the most amazing and the best tour/trip of my life. So don´t worry, I have nothing against what one might call "senior citizens."
Monday (Day 2): We took off from the hotel bright and early, and headed to Nazaré, a small historic fishing town in central Portugal. After spending a couple hours exploring the historic district, walking along the beach, and shopping, we headed to Alcobaca, and visted the Alcobaca Monestery (built in 1153) which was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1989 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alcobaça_Monastery). Then we headed back to the hotel in Fatima, ate lunch, and embarked on the next journey. We spent the afternoon in Batalha, visiting the Santa María de la Victoria Monastery, which was also declared a world heritage site by UNESCO (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batalha_Monastery). And rightfully so; the church is absolutely amazing, and the monastery even more incredible. On our way back from Batalha, we stopped off at a Wine Museum and enjoyed a wine tasting of some of the sweet dessert wines of the Porto region of Portugal. This was my frist wine tasting...and while I must admit I am still not a fan of wine, there was one that I at least found bearable. :)
Tuesday (Day 3): We spent the morning exploring the beautiful historic town of Sintra (located near Lisboa). The entire town is considered a UNESCO world heritage site due to its 19th century Romanesque architecture. Sintra is home to an incredible castle (Castillo Moro) and 2 ornate palaces (Palacio de Pena and the Palacio de la Villa) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pena_Palace). It is also one of the most expensive (and wealthiest) districts of Portugal, along with neighboring Cascais, situated on the beach. After visiting the castles and palaces of Sintra, we took a bus tour of Cascais, took a few moments to wander along the beach, and stopped off in Estoril for a picnic in front of the Casino Estoril, Europe´s largest casino and property of one of Europe´s wealthiest. In the afternoon, we stopped off in Öbidos, a tiny village famous for its white houses adorned with flowers, and for the Medieval wall that surrounds the entire village. Here we enjoyed a traditional cherry liquour, served with a small chocolate tart. As you might guess, the chocolate tart was my favorite part.
Wednesday (Day 4): Day trip to Lisboa!!!! We spent the entire day exploring Portugal´s capital, from the industrial/river side, to the historic district, to the monuments, and to the city center. In the morning, we visted the Jerónimos Monastery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeronimos_Monastery) and the nearby torre of Belem; both of which are UNESCO world heritage sites. After lunch, we had the afternoon free to explore as much or as little of Lisboa as we wanted. As you might guess, I took off running in order to see everything I possibly could. I wandered along the winding streets aimlessly, attempting to find St. Jorge´s Castle. A half hour later, I eventually did. After exploring the castle, I headed back down to the center of town, visited the Cathedral, passed by the Basillica, ran across the main squares, visited the main shopping district, and much, much more. When it was all said and done, I was exhausted. Oh, and did I mention I “met” my first drug dealer?! As I was sprinting across one of the main squares, a man began to approach me asking me if I wanted to buy some marijuana or hashish…I kept walking, and said “no thank you.” Then I got a little feistier when he didn’t accept my “no thank you” and told him to back off. Which he did. Never underestimate the power of voice tonation. But go figure, in broad day light, in a busy populated square…?!
Thursday (Day 5): Day trip to Coimbra, which for many years served as the Capital of Portugal and is home to one of Portugal´s (and Europe´s) oldest and most impressive Universities. We had the opportunity to visit and explore the grounds of the University of Coimbra, the Old and New Cathedrals, the river front, and the historic town center. We returned to the hotel in Fatima for lunch, and spent the afternoon in Cova da Iria (part of Fatima) where the three young shepherds first claimed to have seen the aparition of the Virgin Mary on May 13th in 1917 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fátima,_Portugal).
Friday (Day 6): We had a "free day" to relax and do whatever we wanted in Fatima. Since there really is not much to do in Fatima, other than visit religious museums and the famous Sanctuary of Fatima, that is exactly what I did. I spent the afternoon wandering around the town, and ran into the two bus drivers, and passed an hour or so chatting with them. After dinner, we had a toast and headed over to the other group´s hotel to celebrate the birthday of one of the travelers on Bus #1 (two buses went to Portugal, but we were all the same group). After some good Spanish jokes, some singing and some flamenco, I headed back to the hotel to get a good nights rest since I had to be up at 6:30 am the next morning to begin the long journey back to Spain.
Saturday (Day 7): This might just be my favorite and least favorite day all at once. Clearly I didn´t like the fact that my Portugal adventure was ending, but I was quite thrilled that the bus driver invited me to ride in the very front of the bus (in the guide´s seat next to him) the entire way back! It was, shall we say, absolutely amazing and so much fun! Once back in Ronda, I had to catch another bus to take me back to Ubrique...and officially, my travels ended.
All in all, I had the trip of a lifetime. I have never travelled with such nice, warm, and welcoming people in my life. Nor have I ever met such professional but friendly and fun tour staff (the bus driver and our tour guide). While Portugal is a beautiful country, and I am quite happy to finally say I have visited Portugal (and a large portion of the country at that!), it was the people that made my trip so memorable.
Continuation of the Quirks, Ins-and-Outs, and Best Parts of Spain:
31. Only in Ubrique can you participate in a River Run on a Friday night at 9:30 pm. Yes, I ran with a group of 15 others for 2 kilometers up the freezing cold river that runs through the middle of town. Why? No idea. I suppose just to say we did it.
32. Spanish olive oil truly is the best in the world.
33. Spanish is much easier to understand than Portuguese. Haha.
34. The beaches of Spain are incredible. Cádiz comes to mind. But so does Barcelona, Nerja, Marbella, etc.
35. Bus is the only way to travel in Spain. You miss out on everything if you fly. That is my official opinion. You can quote me.
Friday, March 20, 2009
The Quirks, Ins-and-Outs, and Best Parts of Spain
The take-away on Spain (and Ubrique):
1. Andalucians are the nicest, most wonderful people you will ever meet.
2. On a sunny day, you won´t find a cloud in the sky for miles.
3. You´ve never seen such a bright blue sky in your life.
4. You cannot leave your house without seeing at least 5 people you know.
5. You can walk out your door and be in the mountains in under 10 minutes.
6. Everyone speaks to everyone.
7. Not a minute goes by where you don´t hear someone honking their horn (this is their way of saying hi to a fellow driver or someone walking on the street).
8. You don´t need a car to get around Spain. Walking gets you almost everywhere. And where you can´t go walking, public transportation is cheap and does the trick.
9. There are millions of goats, sheep, pigs, and cows (and bulls) roaming the countryside.
10. Sometimes you have to wait on the road while the sheep or goats take their leisurely time getting accross.
11. Horseback riding into the sunset is amazing.
12. Cadiz has a month long party...every year. What could be better?!
13. Paella. Its amazing.
14. Local bars and local parties...every weekend.
15. Free (or at least affordable) health care. For the first time in my life I didn´t have to pay to visit a doctor when I was sick. It is an amazing feeling.
16. Humility. The people here are humble.
17. You´ve never seen so many recycle bins in your life. Paper. Glass. Plastic. etc.
18. Flamenco and other cultural dances and traditions.
19. Town processions and holiday festivities truly incorporate everyone.
20. No racism (or at least no visible racism).
21. Cost of life is reasonable.
22. People help each other out. Neighbors help neighbors. People don´t just look the other way.
23. Spaniards know how to party, and how to rest. All stores are closed on Sundays. As such, I recommend getting groceries on Saturday. ;)
24. Spanish is a "super guay" (super cool) language.
25. You learn to appreciate hot water and hot showers...because at least once a month, you have to take a freezing cold one.
26. Drying your clothes outside on a clothesline...its just...natural.
27. There are almost no places with central heating. Wear layers.
28. The siesta. Even if you don´t sleep the siesta, you still have a 2 hour break in the work day.
29. Almost everyone has brown hair. So yes, blondes do have more fun!
30. I will most certainly be adding more....so stay tuned.
1. Andalucians are the nicest, most wonderful people you will ever meet.
2. On a sunny day, you won´t find a cloud in the sky for miles.
3. You´ve never seen such a bright blue sky in your life.
4. You cannot leave your house without seeing at least 5 people you know.
5. You can walk out your door and be in the mountains in under 10 minutes.
6. Everyone speaks to everyone.
7. Not a minute goes by where you don´t hear someone honking their horn (this is their way of saying hi to a fellow driver or someone walking on the street).
8. You don´t need a car to get around Spain. Walking gets you almost everywhere. And where you can´t go walking, public transportation is cheap and does the trick.
9. There are millions of goats, sheep, pigs, and cows (and bulls) roaming the countryside.
10. Sometimes you have to wait on the road while the sheep or goats take their leisurely time getting accross.
11. Horseback riding into the sunset is amazing.
12. Cadiz has a month long party...every year. What could be better?!
13. Paella. Its amazing.
14. Local bars and local parties...every weekend.
15. Free (or at least affordable) health care. For the first time in my life I didn´t have to pay to visit a doctor when I was sick. It is an amazing feeling.
16. Humility. The people here are humble.
17. You´ve never seen so many recycle bins in your life. Paper. Glass. Plastic. etc.
18. Flamenco and other cultural dances and traditions.
19. Town processions and holiday festivities truly incorporate everyone.
20. No racism (or at least no visible racism).
21. Cost of life is reasonable.
22. People help each other out. Neighbors help neighbors. People don´t just look the other way.
23. Spaniards know how to party, and how to rest. All stores are closed on Sundays. As such, I recommend getting groceries on Saturday. ;)
24. Spanish is a "super guay" (super cool) language.
25. You learn to appreciate hot water and hot showers...because at least once a month, you have to take a freezing cold one.
26. Drying your clothes outside on a clothesline...its just...natural.
27. There are almost no places with central heating. Wear layers.
28. The siesta. Even if you don´t sleep the siesta, you still have a 2 hour break in the work day.
29. Almost everyone has brown hair. So yes, blondes do have more fun!
30. I will most certainly be adding more....so stay tuned.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Dos Patitos (My Birthday in Spain!!!)
I now have "Los Dos Patitos!" Well, I will start with a quick explanation. In Spain, one´s 22nd birthday is commonly referred to as the "dos patitos" (or two ducks). I will give you a minute or two to think about that. Well, you are probably mind boggled and trying to figure it out ...Give up? It is called the "two ducks" because the number 2, according to my friends, looks like a duck. And two 2s, look like two ducks. Therefore, los dos patitos. ¿Me comprendes?! But if you are more comfortable, you can just say my 22nd birthday. I´m okay with that, too.
I must admit that my 22nd Birthday ranks as one of the best of my life (not counting my 21st for which my amazing dad sent me to Mexico for a week!). The weekend started off with a big surprise. I received a birthday package...and the lovely delivery man informed me that I had to pay a small customs fee of 56 euros. I thought he was joking. He was not. So after paying my 56 euro fee, I dug in to the beautiful gifts inside. My parents sure do know how to shop for their daughter. Thanks to them, I had a lovely outfit to wear out on the town on my special night!!!
Besides receiving a fairly expensive birthday package (haha), I had a few other surprises pop up thanks to my new group of (Spanish) friends who are absolutely fantastic. In fact, I couldn´t ask for better. We all went out, as we do every Friday, for some relaxed chit chat and beers (I drink Shandy..since I hate beer) at Gabana. Afterwards, we grabbed a bite to eat, and then hit the bars, mentioned a couple times that it was my birthday (...and got a few freebies) and danced the night away...until 3:30 am. On Saturday, a group of 6 of us took off to go to Ana Esther´s country hous
e in Arcos de la Frontera. There, her parents made us an amazing lunch of Paella, chicken, oysters, chorizá, fresh bread, and two birthday cakes (one chocolate and one strawberry cheesecake!). While eating lunch outside and enjoying the sunshine (after a week of rain!), the girls ran out to their car and brought back a large package. I opened it...and must admit let out a small shriek of excitment! It was a leather jacket that I first saw in January and had had my eye on for the past three months. Long story short, I REALLY wanted it, and was completely SURPRISED to open it! :)
After several hours in the country, we headed back to Ubrique, went our separate ways, got dressed up to head to the clubs, and met up at midnight. What followed was nothing more than a wonderful evening with some wonderful friends, good music, lots of dancing, and a few drinks here and there. :) Couldn´t have asked for a better, more fun birthday or better company (if only the parentals and fam had been here).
* * * *
To all of you who sent me cards and remembered my birthday, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Grandma
Grandpa
Aunt Kathy and Uncle Mike
Aunt Shelley
I must admit that my 22nd Birthday ranks as one of the best of my life (not counting my 21st for which my amazing dad sent me to Mexico for a week!). The weekend started off with a big surprise. I received a birthday package...and the lovely delivery man informed me that I had to pay a small customs fee of 56 euros. I thought he was joking. He was not. So after paying my 56 euro fee, I dug in to the beautiful gifts inside. My parents sure do know how to shop for their daughter. Thanks to them, I had a lovely outfit to wear out on the town on my special night!!!Besides receiving a fairly expensive birthday package (haha), I had a few other surprises pop up thanks to my new group of (Spanish) friends who are absolutely fantastic. In fact, I couldn´t ask for better. We all went out, as we do every Friday, for some relaxed chit chat and beers (I drink Shandy..since I hate beer) at Gabana. Afterwards, we grabbed a bite to eat, and then hit the bars, mentioned a couple times that it was my birthday (...and got a few freebies) and danced the night away...until 3:30 am. On Saturday, a group of 6 of us took off to go to Ana Esther´s country hous
e in Arcos de la Frontera. There, her parents made us an amazing lunch of Paella, chicken, oysters, chorizá, fresh bread, and two birthday cakes (one chocolate and one strawberry cheesecake!). While eating lunch outside and enjoying the sunshine (after a week of rain!), the girls ran out to their car and brought back a large package. I opened it...and must admit let out a small shriek of excitment! It was a leather jacket that I first saw in January and had had my eye on for the past three months. Long story short, I REALLY wanted it, and was completely SURPRISED to open it! :)After several hours in the country, we headed back to Ubrique, went our separate ways, got dressed up to head to the clubs, and met up at midnight. What followed was nothing more than a wonderful evening with some wonderful friends, good music, lots of dancing, and a few drinks here and there. :) Couldn´t have asked for a better, more fun birthday or better company (if only the parentals and fam had been here).
* * * *
To all of you who sent me cards and remembered my birthday, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Grandma
Grandpa
Aunt Kathy and Uncle Mike
Aunt Shelley
Aunt Lyndi
Aunt Sue
Cuz Julie
Mom and Dad!!!!!
And all my friends, thanks!
Aunt Sue
Cuz Julie
Mom and Dad!!!!!
And all my friends, thanks!
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